Conceived as a typically English take on the James Bond character the Milk Tray Man, who embodied elements of courtly love from a long lost age, went from being an ironic figure of fun to an iconic romantic hero in just one generation. In the series of TV ads that ran from 1967 to 2003, he battled sharks, raging torrents and avalanches etc. to bring his lady a box of Cadbury’s famous milk chocolate assortment, and in so doing proved his worth through ardour, valour, and unwavering devotion.
But it wasn’t just these brave and self-denying actions that made him so admirable to women, made him such a legend among men, and ensured his mark was firmly fixed in British popular culture. It was also because he wore a black roll-neck sweater at a time when such a garment signified cool, elegant sophistication and, on the right man, emanated sleek, panther-like magnetism.
Now, any man performing acts of derring-do while dressed in black, especially where chocolates are involved, is affectionately dubbed a Milk Tray Man in his honour. Julian Thompson, for instance, formerly a brigade commander during the Falklands conflict, recounted one such episode in his autobiography. Margaret Thatcher, the then Prime Minister, was attending an exercise involving the Special Boat Service who had been tasked with storming a practice ‘enemy’ ship. The exercise having passed off with great success culminated in one black-clad operative stepping forward, unzipping a wetsuit still dripping with water, and presenting the Prime Minister with a box of the Cadbury’s assortment. So touched was Thatcher with the gesture, being a keen admirer of the fictional man in black, that she insisted on keeping the chocolates for herself despite attempts by an aide to take them off her.
Many chocophiles claim the Milk Tray Man to be a modern version of the Swiss mercenary in Bernard Shaw’s play Arms and the Man. When one looks at their technique there are certainly some interesting similarities:
- The Milk Tray ads featured a daredevil action hero who risked life and limb to deliver a box of chocolates, and in Arms and the Man the Swiss mercenary risks being killed by enemy soldiers to hide in a young lady’s bedchamber.
- In the ads, the box was often delivered surreptitiously under cover of darkness, and in Arms and the Man the mercenary enters the house at night through an upstairs window.
- In the ads, the Milk Tray Man leaves behind an enigmatic calling card, suggesting the lady would have known who he was, or would have wanted to know; and in the play the mercenary first appears as a stranger, then as an admirer, and finally as a suitor, with chocolates being the catalyst keeping the chemistry of the relationship going. “To my last hour I shall remember those three chocolate creams”, he exclaims at their first parting.
Other contenders include Mr Darcy from Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice, or at least the Mr Darcy in the Keira Knightley version. In this one, Mr Darcy bursts into Elizabeth’s bedroom at night, just as the Milk Tray Man would have done, to deliver an important missive. In the novel, Elizabeth acknowledges Darcy’s chivalry when she says he is “the most generous of his sex”. And the description Mr Darcy – a bit sulky is, presciently, an anagram of “Cadbury’s Milk Tray”.